This vinyl sticker PCB website was built, among many other reasons, to share with you a new method of making printed circuit boards. As you will see, it supports conductive pathways as narrow as to 0.15 mm.

It is cheaper, faster and easier to perform than many other methods you have seen or tried before. Its only flaw is that the large areas of copper (ground planes for example) require working with at least a 1200dpi laser printer. Feel free to consider a laminator as an alternative to the iron. Until then, take a look at what we have to say in the next pages.

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Vinyl sticker PCB technique explained

The vinyl sticker PCB technique uses thermal transfer to stick the toner from a laser printer to copper through the vinyl foil. The process is so easy that any newbie can put it into practice within minutes. And the success rate is set somewhere between 95-98%. Vinyl is perfect for this purpose because:

• It presents thermal resistance so it doesn’t wrinkle during printing while

• It’s melting temperature is low enough to allow the toner keep its volume even after going through the fuser (the printer’s unit responsible with melting the toner)

I am now going to detail the steps for you, with a pcb manufacturing tutorial based on images for every single stage. This printed circuit board manual is dedicated to single sided boards, perfect for those with little experience. The pros can always check this guide for double sided projects, again by the same vinyl sticker PCB strategy.

What software do you need?

From all the software I have tried before I can recommend you Sprint Layout. Still, you will have to pay $39.90 for it and you can download it from Sprint Layout.

For free software you can always try Express PCB at ExpressPCB or more advanced tools from CAD category, Orcad or Eagle included.

Make no mistake, one can use whatever software dedicated to circuits design. However, at this point, I address to beginners tempted to try vinyl sticker PCB. I know from experience that the main problem with using such a program is the length of the learning curve. And from this perspective Sprint Layout:

• is very simple, particularly designed for Windows users – works with standard commends – “copy”, “cut”, “save”
• does not require writing and linking the electronic scheme with the one of the electronic parts inside the software
• allows you to directly create the wiring board even when having the electronic scheme of the vinyl sticker PCB drawn on a sheet of paper with a pencil, drawn in Paint or with any other drawing software
• eases block changes of elements since there are no footprints associated to the compounds from the scheme
• allows changes applicable to the entire scheme to be performed with a simple “Select All – Crl+A”, setting the new diameter and pressing enter (in Orcad for example it will take resizing each piece individually)

From the drawn to the printed schematic:

Now let’s assume that we already have a scheme of the vinyl sticker pcb and that we have also drawn the one of the pathways. It should look like this:

There are two different layers that we refer to as “C2” and “0”. We need (or not – it depends of what we usually consider top layer ) the mirrored version of this initial image and we will obtain it by pressing “Options/Mirror”.

• 0 layer is the border line. We will print it first so we can know precisely where to place the vinyl sticker. If the foil is not self adhesive we are going to use paper stickers to fix it on top of the border. So we’ll print the contour of the scheme with layer 0 on a simple sheet of A4 paper.

• Once you have the contour make no other change in the software regarding its position. In this way, when printing C2 layer the two of them will be synchronized, with C2 inside 0. This is an essential part of prepping the printing for your vinyl sticker PCB project.

• We use the self adhesive print screen vinyl foil, not its paper side from the back. Once again, perfect for making your own PCB. In the end all you have to do is to detach it from the heated board. The toner remains imprinted on the copper side! No more rubbing wet paper until you get tired!

Before starting to work with the vinyl we will thoroughly wash our hands with water and soap. Make sure you only place your fingers on its edges.

Working with vinyl sticker:

Vinyl sticker PCB technique involves cutting a piece of the material large enough to cover layer 0. Also very important, it must spread over its borders with 1 cm on each side. Now the foil is placed with its glossy side (vinyl side) upwards.

• Use a sharp tip to separate the self adhesive foil from the paper:

• Carefully handle the foil by keeping it away from the objects from around. We don’t want it to accidentally touch them or, even worse, the paper with the printed border line in the wrong place.

• Now we gently place the vinyl over the printed layer ’0′. Make sure you only put your fingers outside the area that will overlap with the border.

• Begin by its lower edge and then slowly continue without making any wrinkles. You need a smooth movement and the sticker to be as parallel with the paper as possible.

If you plan making vinyl sticker PCB you must always consider the quality of the copper board. You want the thinnest traces to be accurately imprinted through thermal transfer. Therefore, it is mandatory to use 1.5 mm thickness fiberglass boards.

• Use a dry cloth to properly clean the vinyl foil. You can even use a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. This will remove the traces of grease that may have remained from handling the foil.

Back to printing the layers:

Next we will have to print layer C2 on the paper that already has layer 0 and the transparent sticker on it. The tricky part is to identify the way your printer works for the new print to perfectly match it. You might have to make several tests on an A4 paper that only has the layer 0 printed. You don’t want to make experiments with the vinyl and just waste it if something goes wrong.

For instance, I work with a Xerox 3117. So I know I have to introduce the paper with layer 0 facing upwards and with the border line oriented towards the inside of the printer:

As a rule, any laser printer that works with toner should suit for this purpose. Some of them are more effective, others will do less of a good job. But the only way to find out is to test them. If your printer doesn’t perform well on this task you can always try on a neighbor or even at the office.

When you know how to place the paper for a perfect printing you will have to set the toner options to the highest value – 600-1200dpi. Also, check both layers 0 and C2 for printing. Very important, do not forget to also check Options/Mirror (if you use C2 as a top layer). Otherwise the scheme will be useless. And printing:

How to handle the copper board:

Now we have to cut the circuit board for the exact size of the layer 0 plus 4 mm on each side. You need those extra mm to have enough room for putting equal pressure . Both in the center and the edges of the sheet when imprinting the circuit on it.

When cutting it, the vinyl sticker PCB board also needs to be stoned (deburred) with a proper tool on the edges of both sides:

Homemade pcb can still look professional as long as you pay attention to the way your copper board looks. Cut the board on the right size and stone it.

The coolest part is the one of the thermal transfer. Prep this stage by polishing the copper plated side with a piece of very thin sand paper through circular movements. Watch out for the resulting copper dust that must be removed with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol.

After polishing wash it with dishwasher detergent for complete degrease. You can tell when it’s perfectly clean with a simple water test. Poor it on the board and see if it forms a thin layer without bubbles or congestion. If the liquid gathers on certain surfaces you will have to clean it a little bit more. When perfectly dried it will be ready for the thermal transfer of the vinyl sticker PCB.

If your schematic isn’t so large or doesn’t have tiny copper pathways you can simply use an eraser. In that case there is no need to wash it . You just brush the copper clad.

Matching the vinyl sticker PCB single sided schematic with the copper board:

• Take a water resistant marker to draw one sign on each of the four quarters of the scheme printed on paper. These will serve as landmarks for placing the copper board on top of it. Make sure you inscribe them on equal distances:

• Put the board over the draw with the copper side face down.
• Plug the iron and let it heat.
• Use an iron with thermostat, mandatory without steaming! If it has this function, make sure you don’t use it. For best results it is also advisable to have a smooth plate, without holes in it.
• You need to work with medium temperature. You will know when you have set the right one by turning the thermostat up to the point when it gives a yellowish shade to the paper. When that happens you slightly turn it down a little bit and that’s it.

This step of the vinyl sticker PCB process is very important: too much heat will burn the toner and melt down the vinyl sticker; too little heat will not allow for the toner to properly transfer from the vinyl to the copper foil. You might have to make several tests until finding the right temperature. You will get used to it in time, it’s really not hard at all.

• Stick the board and the vinyl with a couple of self adhesive stickers. If the board is too small however you should not use them and simply bend the edges of the vinyl over the wiring board. Make sure you are not switching the position of the board from those four markers you have drawn on the printed scheme.

Our example involves a large homemade vinyl sticker pcb with dimensions close to the ones of an A4 paper. As there is not enough room for bending, it may be a little difficult to remove the stickers in the end, by using nitrocellulose thinner. The same thinner will later be used for removing the toner from the board after the etching process.

Warning! Only use nitrocellulose solvent in open and well ventilated spaces or outdoor. Wear protection glasses and carefully handle it as it is highly volatile and flammable. Do not breathe escaping vapors. In case of eye contact wash thoroughly with cold water. Keep it away from children, heat sources or tight, unventilated spaces.

• Turn the assembly with the board underneath. With the iron already heated on the right temperature, start applying constant pressure on the paper covering the wiring board. Do not overact. Press and make circular even moves for time-frames of approximately 60 seconds. Make sure that you also use the edges of the iron, in case it does not have a perfectly flat plate. The paper will become shinny and the wiring should be visible through it.

Caution! If the paper turns yellow the temperature is too high. Set the thermostat lower and let the iron aside to cool down for several minutes:

• After approximately one minute UNPLUG THE IRON and take the vinyl sticker pcb to the sink. Put it under the water flow, first the board side and then the paper side. Keep it like that for 15-20 seconds each.
• Getting back to the working table, VERIFY IF THE IRON IS UNPLUGGED. Take a cutter to remove the stickers if they aren’t already soaked with water:

And this is the amazing part: detaching the vinyl from the copper foil!

Perfect thermal toner transfer  for vinyl sticker PCB:

You can see how the toner transfer is 100%. The secret of total toner transfer is just as simple: the self adhesive foil has the property to slowly soften when heated with the iron and allows the toner, which gets harder, to gain volume.

The wiring will have height and if we look closely on the toner caught on them we will notice how smooth its surface is (with a regular paper the transfer would have led to a porous aspect). For this reason the etching agent will not reach the copper underneath the toner and the conductivity will be flawless. You can have these advantages for traces of 0.2 mm on a regular base!

And another macro sample from other schematic of vinyl sticker PCB:

(Click to get closer)

Here is our single sided pcb put under scrutiny:

Look at the routes of 0.2 mm passing through the pins of a CD4049 integrated circuit:

Look how the holes of the pads are completely unveiled, which will allow to perfectly fix the drill when making the holes:

Vinyl sticker PCB etching and soldering:

Coming up next is the etching of the copper that is not covered by toner. We are going to use ferric chloride (FeCl3).

Warning! Only use ferric chloride in open and well ventilated spaces or outdoor. Wear protection glasses and carefully handle it as it is highly corrosive. Do not breathe escaping vapors. In case of eye contact wash thoroughly with cold water. Keep it away from children, heat sources or tight, unventilated spaces:

After etching and drying your vinyl sticker PCB will look like this picture. with thinnest quality traces.

• Remove the toner from the wiring and the stickers from the back of the board with nitrocellulose (or acetone) solvent. Doesn’t this foil allow making printed circuit boards a whole lot easier?

Warning! Only use nitrocellulose solvent in open and well ventilated spaces or outdoor. Wear protection glasses and carefully handle it as it is highly volatile and flammable. Do not breathe escaping vapors. In case of eye contact wash thoroughly with cold water. Keep it away from children, heat sources or tight, unventilated spaces.

• The etched wiring board still needs to be cleaned from the toner from the scheme traces. Use a cloth soaked in solvent and gently erase it.

• The copper wiring must now be covered with a thin layer of tin to strengthen it and insure protection against oxidation.  First use a piece of smooth glass paper just like the one you have initially stoned the copper board with, before the thermal transfer of the vinyl sticker pcb.
• As you remove the oxide clean the copper residues with a cloth soaked in ethyl or isopropyl alcohol. You can spread it on the entire vinyl sticker pcb without problems.
• Heat a low power solder (of maximum 30W) and follow wire by wire with only a little bit of tin. Complete the whole assembly.
• In the end, wash everything once again with alcohol to remove the remained rosin and your board is ready for drilling. In fact, you can drill it prior to tinning the wiring. Make sure you choose the right drills for each piece of the electrical scheme. Place them in a driller of low power, one especially designed for making pcb.

The tinned vinyl sticker pcb without drills will look like this:

Take one last look on the thinnest wires of the scheme.

And this was my homemade single sided vinyl sticker pcb tutorial. I hope you enjoyed it and, even more important, it really eased your work!

 

 

Search for  “Outdoor cricut vinyl which is Oracal 651″ at the end of this page:Printable Vinyl

There is a Romanian version of this site with more photos and articles about vinyl sticker pcb at : Versiunea romaneasca